tirsdag 25. mars 2008

Final days...

As the survey and my own interrogation went really well, I was so pleased when we sat on the bus back to Bangalore. My thoughts was spinning, my body drained and my stomach well... I wanted to scream with joy, although I knew that I still had to plot 80 questionnaires into Excel. It is a hard task, but absolutely doable and the reason for why I am here in the first place, so I shall not complain...

I have lots of good information for my master now. How I look forward to the writing. It will be fun I think... Have made maps of the institutions, of the distributary and have loads of pictures and memories... The small moments of pure living in all the turmoil, are filed in the "keep"file, and will be revealed to those who wants to listen...

I am sad but mostly happy to go home. Tired is the word - as I have not slept in two days (due to stomach) It is so typically me to get ill just at the end, but will go to the doctor and get a happy mix (so bright colours these pills) and zimzalabim; no more pain....

I hope you have all enjoyed this blog. I will update it with pictures to accompany the last trip and the last days, but that I will have to do from home...

Back to plotting....
Miss you all sooooooo much.. but will be reachable on Saturday.... Norway here I come...

Klem mai

søndag 23. mars 2008

Lets get started shall we!!!!! Friday 21st of March

Yet a new environment and a new everyday in rural India. Waking up on a thin matt (which takes a few nights to get used to) on the floor, underneath a mosquito net, sweaty, well it is all worth it when you dip your hands in the stream right outside the house and breathe in fresh air. Acres with rice fields, coconut trees and flowers in all sorts of colours, not to mention the sound of music from the wildlife. I cannot describe this incredible notion puzzling me every morning. I am privileged to wake up to this and it is defiantly the highlight of my day.

Interviewing the farmers is though when the Soria (Sun – think that is a new name on my long list) is out haunting your every move. Yesterday I think we must have had the warmest day until now – probably around 35 degrees. I cannot describe the heat – so the 24 interviews (three of my ones) where done on a stone bed outside a farmers house, shaded by palm leaves.

This morning the enumerators arrived (to my frustration “only” two days late- but hey that is Indian time right???) After a quick dip in the nearest canal and a short training session we embraced this clouded day. I was not feeling very well today, so delighted to not have to deal with a burning heat. In fact as I am writing this it is pouring down with rain, serious rain… We went to the tail end of head reach minor today. Not so many visible issues, but damages to the minor structure, sometimes little water in the canal, no cooperatives or Water User Associations (WUA´s) in this part and generally little interaction with any institutions and officials. The WUA´s are meant to strengthen the farmer’s ability to have a direct impact and more to say in the management process of irrigation water. I am yet not convinced that these organisations are working; yet the farmers are also not convinced that this is the way to go. They have their own ways of dealing with their issues. When there are issues, they form a group and go to the offices. If there is no result they take matters into own hands. There are defiantly some evidence that they are working some places but generally all over I am under the impression that this is system are failing.

I am feeling better now that the rain is falling. The heavy pressure has finally left my head alone… I was given so much tea today, and this one farmer who could speak sulpa (a little) English, insisted on me coming to his home. Firstly serving cardamom tea (amazing taste) then secondly running up to the roof picking a coconut for me to drink, then finally ending this feast with a raw mango with salt, topping it with a tamarin (sour fruit in a shell) snack – well I have to say… Usually everything in a garden is useful. Neem trees are disinfecting, several herbs and spices, fruits, vegetables, lime trees are everywhere in this region, grass for fodder and so on. Nice—I like a lot…

I also had to come to several homes in the headquarters we are staying in. more tea, homemade sweets (which I now can make – will serve at next party) and a view into their personal life. Admiring one of the girls handicraft skills, as she was embroidering pearls onto a yellow sari (Indian dress). Beautiful.. they offered mango juice – as I had strongly insisted on no more tea.

Now I am off to bed. The rain is still pouring… Chenagide.. (l like…)

Going to the temple Mantralayam in Andhra Pradesh, Tuesday 18 March

As we have one extra day we chose to use today for an outing outside the project. Getting up at 5 in the morning to go to a temple 3.5 hours away sort of seem a bit strange to me – but I was willing to experience something different. Choosing to take the local buses, change in Raichur and arriving almost simultaneously with the direct express, also seemed a bit strange to me – but again I am all up for a true Indian experience. There are many small details in the past two months that has puzzled me greatly. It seems lots of things get complicated, less effective and unstructured all in order to …??? In a restaurant there are 1 person taking the order, 1 person serving you, 1 person asking you if you are satisfied, one just checking last time, 1 person cleaning, several people standing around and I have no idea about the status of people in the kitchen. It is done in good spirits, to create work for more people. You should think this at least would make your food come faster – but no. In shops one at the tiller, one packing your bags, one standing at the entrance giving you your bags, one stamping your receipt with a paid stamp and then you are free to go. I admire the effort and the system; it just takes a long time to get used too.

So Mantralayam… After the bus trip we arrived in the town sharing the same name, and as one shall not eat before prayers, I was starting to feel a little bit hungry passing several nice food places. Entering the temple area, we first went down to take a holy bath in Tungabhadra. It is almost like still working, as the river seems to be everywhere. As the pictures clearly tell, there was not much of a river these days, and I did not feel like dipping myself in this water. But the Indians enjoy it tremendously. Soaping until the lather is covering their entire body, then swimming, laughing and chanting. A beautiful sight, but somehow sad to know that the water quality is so poor… how I wish I could leave that notion of knowledge on the shelf for a second and just totally live in the moment…

The temple was not as mind-blowing as other smaller temples I have seen in the past weeks, and the money boxes every second step, underneath every statue just enables me to enjoy the moment. I have yet to get over this paying for believing and receiving blessings. One thing is at the end of the experience you offer a donation, but at every step –how can anyone feel relieved. This I have met around the world, and it has blinded me – spearing me the opportunity to see what the believers see. I only see just that – business.

All in all, a nice relaxing day. The bus trip back, the stopover in Raichur wandering around a bit, then the lovely dreams when dazing off and the opportunity to update my blog finally. A good day.

Tomorrow will be another working day as our enumerators will be joining us and we will start to conduct the survey. This is it for now… Miss you all sooooo much now. But will be back on the 27th, so will give it 110% till then,

Lots of Love to you all
Mai

Walkthrough survey along the river, Sunday 15th of March

Getting up early we were out of the room at around 810. A car from the irrigation department was waiting and a nice driver. We were of to drive along the entire distributary 54 –a jumping 43 km. In addition we also drove down the three minors, choosing the three villages were we want to conduct the household survey. We picked up the first division officer, who had records and details on the first part of the river. The sun was shining and the heat sneakishly entering the car…(still early in the morning)

Just to give you a small insight to some of the findings:
There were no problems in the upper part of this distributary, as is the case in most distributaries. The head reach has plenty of water, lots of land per farmer and generally a good living standard. The problems accumulate towards the end of the stretch. This due to a typical neglect for understanding that excess water use in the upper part, by for example violation of cropping pattern, has dramatic consequences for the tail end. See the pictures. This is absolutely the case in this distributary. The distributary is designed to have a healthy flow for 43 km, but there is almost no water at around 30 km down the distributary. This affects many villages, and farmers obviously. We have chose minor 18 in the tail end. As we drove along it, the car suddenly stopped. There was a large gap in the road and in the minor. The farmers must have been so frustrated that they had destroyed the actual minor by making a huge hole in the structure. This to try to lead the little water there is in the minor, to their plots. It so truthful to see it in person – how the farmers choose to deal with the fact that they receive no water. As the government has promised the tail end water, it is their job to provide it. But as there are many factors along the distributary that also affects the outcome in the tail end, they manage to get away with almost laughing at our comments on how bad it is that there is no water n this particular part. It’s such a shame that the farmer’s collective action is destructive methods. But I hope to uncover why that is. I will be interviewing and interrogating from Thursday an onwards to find out if they have tried to impact and have a say in other ways too.

At one point we got stuck by the way. The mud captured the back tyre and the driver – well let’s just say he just made it worse. We called for a tractor that came to our rescue after an hour. We rested in the shade of a tree. I have to say – it is the first time I have felt such a difference between heat and shaded heat. It was unbelievable. Felt like 10 degrees cooler in the shade and so pleasant. I am so glad to have experienced that beautiful difference. I now understand why all animals magically flock around their Sheppard’s, sitting in the shade of a tree having their lunch. The exhaustion was indescribable, resulting in me I sleeping without dinner…

Visiting the officials in charge of Tungabhadra and Distributary 54

Arriving in Sindahnur at 730 as planned most have meant that the bus driver stepped on it. We went to find our headquarters, had a bath and went to meet the CADA officer. We had some food, and then went to the CADA headquarters to get answers to some of our initial questions. There was a strange “No comment” and “ask the Irrigation department” on some of our particular matters. The one officer however spoke up and revealed several good juicy stories as to why there is and has been a violation in cropping patters. This official claimed that apparently there was a minister some 20 years back, wishing to win the election, promising enough water for everyone, meaning everyone could grow paddy – the most water intensive crop. This lead to that everyone started growing paddy. Head reach, mid reach and also in tail end. There are many more reasons, but he claimed this was the main one.

The vicious thing about paddy is that it requires to literally standing in water throughout the season. This is leading to a drastic soil adjustment, which again means to shift to a less water intensive crop after you have grown paddy, is more or less impossible. It therefore becomes a vicious circle… Rice also operates with a constant market price, which makes it a safe option – so that is another obvious factor for why the farmers chose to grow it. Horticulture crops (tomato, onion), chili and other crops vary and fluctuates in price so is not as safe. But what to do when the water is not there? It’s complicated and the answers are not exactly many…

I could go on here, but tired and the electricity just shut. (Happens on a regular bases here.)
Night,
Mai

Traveling to Raichur district and Sindahnur

This trip started off late on 13th of March. Realising I only had two weeks left, made me a bit melancholic. In one way I cannot wait to get back home, but I sense a difference in my mind that will take time to adjust back. On the other hand India has still so much more knowledge, culture, places and a natural rhythm still uncovered. I will be back for sure…

Sitting in the amazingly busy bus station Majestic, I was the first one to arrive. (10 minutes early is not normal...). I sat and watched the people. There were those who were running, those who were getting ready to sleep at night taking off their shoes, finding a corner and settling down. Those with kids, young families, old families, people carrying television set, 20 kg of rice, grass or other types of shopping. Kids smiling, drunks stopping up and staring, the beggars not giving in, and I think I was the only foreigner (not from India that is) amongst the many hundred people there. The others arrived within 20-30 minutes. We were all in a good mood. Think one of the boys had been drinking a bit actually. This is not very common here, but obviously I don’t mind…

The buses run regularly and mostly on the dot. This time however the bus was one hour late, but when arrived we got into the bus and off we went. I was just about to fall asleep, when the bus suddenly turned. The air-condition did not work, so we had to go back to the bus station. Here we changed buses and the time was now 1230, but finally we were on our way. I slept like a baby more or less all night long.

sorry for the looong break...

Life in Bangalore has consisted mostly of desk work, so haven't written much about it. Some really good partying and nice time with friends in town, plotting numbers, getting ready for next fieldtrip has been my agenda in between...

Following are the notes from my last fieldtrip.

Enjoy,
Klem Mai

mandag 10. mars 2008

Last day in field - but still one more day to come... 02.03.08

Today I was the first one out of bed. I went out on the backside of the house - let the fresh morning gracefully blow the not so fresh night odors from the boys room away... There was no sun just yet so lighted a candled a bathed in the rustic room in the dimmed light... It felt like a movie.. It felt like a cabin trip really, all very basic and sort of natural... After my bath, I went on the porch and watched the people wake up as well.. They have their morning rituals, fetching water was the first one. About 10 x10 litres every morning for each family. The one dad watered the plants with the water he withdrew, so had to get another 5 buckets. They seemed to have a rotation order,who goes first, second but then the fifth and the sixth person was a bit "hey, you are late are you not?...." But no hard comments, just neighborly comments on well I have not got a clue what they were really chatting about, but it looked peaceful... In harmony with nature... The kids starting waking up running around and getting ready for school. They all have bikes sponsored from the government here, in order to get to school in time and it is obviously much faster than walking, plus lots of fun... They love their bikes...

The local joint we are eating at makes the best food -my stomach is ticking like a clock. In fact I am much better in the village side compared to Bangalore. Think it might have to do with the freshness of inexpediences, the fact that it is prepared straight away (not bulk food) and the places we have been eating at are generally clean. I only skipped lunch at one place... Had biscuits and coconut-juice instead. Delicious...

Today we were at the head of the head reach. I have not been in such big homes before I believe... They were just to big. The house I am in right now has marbled floors, a 40m2 garage with two cars, 3 motorcycles and two good bikes. I think they might be sharing this with the neighbour, but still... The TV was just stupidly big and well I have to say they are seemingly living good lives... I felt really run down after 1 hour in the village( Had a bad cold throughout, but today it just got a bit worse) I was generally a bit out of it today. I still managed to dance with the kids in the evening. We made a big campfire, I sang a Norwegian song (Når trollmor har lagt sine 11 små troll...) The bit with oayayayayabufff was easy to get so everyone joined in.. Then it was the kids and the boys time.. They screamed and sang so beautifully for 1 hour... Then we danced as we turned the car sterio on full power and blasted the all so quit place until midnight. The kids loved it, and so did we... I was exhausted by the end of it all, but the holding of hands, shaking and swirling the kids and sharing of tunes was so worth it...

What a beautiful morning...and what a night.... 01.03.08

Today I woke up after a fantastic sound sleep. I have not slept this well in the last month, so nice to wake up refreshed. Then the beauty of the place we were staying at hit me... I had to fetch water from the well in the middle of the yard. It was just such a sight.. The cock was welcoming me and the sun. The boys were laughing, farting, fighting, slapping each other and everything else one does in the morning, so my meditation session was sort of out of the question... All the kids in the neighborhood came out wondering what that noise was, only to find lots of new playmates and friends. I joined the girls who drew a square on the ground and jumped around kicking the stone around, then I drew a "pardis" and they off course knew that one so a success. Then we ran, yes the joy if running the fastest you could (without shoes) was exciting and made all of us bubble... I obviously was a bit out of breath (and my clogged nose did not help much) after the fourth round, the kids went on whilst I counted in their language, Kannada.

We visited the mid reach of the mid reach today. The situation there was a bit different...There was in one village no canal water. This meant that they had to get water from the ground using bore wells, and this again meant that we could not conduct our survey in this village as we are interested mostly in canal water, the prices the farmers pay for this particular water (you don't pay for the water you withdraw from your own ground) or a combo of both canal and borewells. We moved on to the next village, as it was far away one of the farmers offered us a ride on his motorcycle - so we drove off in style.. A tremendous amount of warmth and smiles and lots of tea and food were offered wherever we went... So hartwarming... (I do get funny looks and remarks but hey I probably look at people funnily as well..Its only human...)

The day was a great success. This went faster then we thought, meaning we could be done tomorrow. As the sky turned black and the sparkling sea of stars emerged (we are talking billions of them - so incredible) I searched for star signs. Realizing that the Big Dipper was upside down, got me thinking. I think i might have mentioned that the moon grows from down to top and top to down rather than from side to side like in Norway..??? Anyway, it is a reminder of were in the world I am, and that you have to look at the world with a different set of attitudes in order to get the context. The visible world is different... How amazing!!!! Good night to all of you out there...

Klem mai

Finally off to the field....29.02.08

The enumerators, those who are helping us conducting the survey, arrived 2 hours late. Typical Indian time… But after a short introduction to team of 9 handsome 22-year-old Indian boys, we were off. The car we had only took 9 so Harish and me headed for the local bus. I have to say the buses are about the only thing running somewhat on time... Slowly Bhadravati city centre was in the distance and miles of field, coconut groves, a humpy road was emerging… Distributary 22 is part of the Bhadra reservoir right bank canal project. It is a very successful project as there is very little water shortage. Interestingly about 15 years ago the farmers in this area realized that growing rice was not going to work. They therefore shifted to arecanut, needs watering once a month, that is it. As it also is a tree the labour is just the harvesting once a year and then the refinement process can happen in the homes of the farmers. It is therefore a end product that leaves the farmers resulting in an extremely high price. It’s amazing… Their initiative also allows water to flow to the very end of the distributary. This is all in all a very healthy shift and has proven to be extremely successful. I have to say as we went to the tail end village - Sanyasi Kodimagge Hosur, I was a bit shocked to see the wealth and high standard of living. Motorbikes (latest models) huge houses, good clothing, education and sanitation facilities were all in place. This only shows that were there is good management of the water resource, great livelihoods and good standard of living can be achieved.

I easily stand out in the countryside. May stop and stare as they have seen a ghost – and some stopped my colleagues asking of I were there to exploit them. This is hard to begin with, but you soon realise this is only a natural reaction. I tend to interact well with kids. Saying hello to them in their language as well as what is your name – breaks the awkwardness.. They laugh and start speaking English straight away. I started taking pictures and that was a huge success. They loved seeing their face on the screen… So beautiful… We got to the place we were staying around 6 after a hard session. It was the headquarters of the Irrigation department workers. Really basic, but there was two beds so Cavita and me got those. The boys were on the floor. I was dead, so slept like a baby straight away…

onsdag 5. mars 2008

Field trip to Smimoga - Arriving in Bhadravati 28.02.08

After a day at the bus (8 hours) and miles of beautiful countryside and other picturesque scenery, I arrived in Bhadravati. I am still in the same state Karnataka, but I am now in the Shimoga region - also known as the breadbasket of Karnataka. The lush jungle-like forests and the many rivers and waterways, makes it a good place to be a farmer. Rice, arecanut (aka Betel nut), cotton, maize and ragi (Finger millet) are the major crops cultivated here. In the region we visited, farmers grew mainly arecanut. The arecanut tree resembles the coconut tree, and I got some arecanuts from a farmer we interviewed, not to mention the taste session I had in front of 5 farmers. The nut is meant to act as a mouth freshener. You chew it together with a leaf, some tasty spices and some lime. I have to say the taste was okay, but to chew on a nut that was so hard I felt like me jaw was going to brake any minute, the red tongue afterwards and the bits in between your teeth - not convinced ill be a regular chewer… Great to see how the refinement process worked and to see that it is requiring little water, leaving enough for almost everyone in distributary 22 (the 1 river arm out of 2 we have focused this particular study on)

I said goodbye to a friend on the bus - Anna Pourna, a beautiful old lady who eagerly chatted with me for two hours. Although she spoke in Kannada, and I spoke in English, we seemed to be getting some information across. I have picked up a good deal of the language now, and everyone is so appreciative of this effort. It makes it easy to break the ice between my somehow different presences in their everyday life. Me, Avi, Harish, Umesh and Cavita (the 5 of us are in charge of this survey together) had dinner at a local diner. I will be eating the local food where the plates are clean (good indicator of the standard of the place) but will stay clear of drinking the water ironically. The hotel was dreadful, but a warm shower is worth paying for. Cant wait for tomorrow.